Winter changes the parks
When snow falls on the Cantabrian Mountains, the passes, brañas and high pastures of the natural parks disappear under a white blanket and empty of people. Snowshoes are the simplest way to explore them: you do not need to know how to ski, you learn in ten minutes, and they let you walk where in boots you would sink to the knee.
This guide covers where to go, with the figures for each route, guided outings for beginners and what you should know about safety before stepping onto the snow.
When there is snow
There is no fixed calendar. It usually lies on the passes between December and March, but every winter is different and a storm can bring half a metre or take it away within days. Altitude decides: at Santa María del Puerto in Somiedo, at almost 1,500 metres, snow is common in winter; in the valleys, far less so.
Before setting off, check two things: the AEMET forecast and road conditions. Some mountain roads close with snow, such as the Alto de La Farrapona in Somiedo, which is usually shut in winter.
Somiedo: thirteen winter routes
Somiedo is the park with the most routes described for snow: 13 itineraries for snowshoes or skis starting from five points, El Puerto, La Peral, La Farrapona, Valle del Lago and Villar de Vildas. These four are good ones to start with on snowshoes (the route pages are in Spanish):
| Route | Distance | Time | Ascent | Difficulty |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| El Puerto – Peña Salgada | 7 km (loop) | 2 h 45 min | 450 m | Easy |
| El Puerto – El Robezo | 10 km (loop) | 3 h 25 min | 450 m | Moderate |
| Valle del Lago – Lago del Valle | 13 km (loop) | 4 h 30 min | 600 m | Moderate |
| Villar de Vildas – Braña Viecha | 6.5 km (one way) | 3 h 45 min | 550 m | Moderate |
Santa María del Puerto is the most practical base: five of the thirteen start there and it is where the snow lasts longest. The two that leave from the Alto de La Farrapona depend on the road being open.
👉 All thirteen are listed in Somiedo in winter
Redes: high pastures under the snow
Redes has no dedicated winter routes, but two of its classics are transformed by snow:
- Vega de Pociellu (13 km · 4 h 30 min · 500 m of ascent). In winter the pasture is usually covered in snow and becomes excellent snowshoe terrain.
- Brañagallones (21 km · 6 h · 805 m). Long and demanding even without snow; with it, access gets harder and snowshoes become necessary. Only for experienced walkers on a settled day.
Fuentes del Narcea: Cueto de Arbas
From the Leitariegos pass, the ascent of Cueto de Arbas (7.2 km return · 3 h · 450 m) is short and works very well on snowshoes. Watch out for ice on the upper section.
With a guide: San Isidro and Picu Torres
On a first outing, the sensible choice is to go with a guide. At the San Isidro pass, next to the Fuentes de Invierno ski resort and on the edge of Redes Natural Park, three outings can be booked online, all starting from La Raya: a 2-hour snowshoe walk around Fuentes de Invierno (from €15), a 3-hour walk on the lower slopes of Picu Torres (from €20) and a 2.5-hour night walk (from €20) that includes hot broth or tea. All three are led by a Spanish-speaking guide and, depending on the option, include the equipment.
👉 See the snowshoe outings from La Raya
Where snowshoes are not enough
Snowshoes are for gentle terrain. Snow-covered summits are a different matter and call for crampons, an ice axe and the skill to use them:
- Peña Ubiña: they are essential in winter and spring, and there is avalanche risk.
- El Cornón, in Somiedo: the wind forms sheets of ice.
- Pico Pierzu, in Ponga: it has steep snow slopes.
Staying safe
- Plan around daylight. In December it gets dark before six in the evening, and earlier in narrow valleys. Start early and carry a head torch.
- Dress in layers and wear waterproof boots, gaiters, gloves, sunglasses and sun cream: snow reflects a great deal of light.
- Avalanches. In season AEMET publishes an avalanche danger bulletin for the Picos de Europa, the nearest reference. With snow on the ground the risk is never zero: avoid steep slopes, especially after fresh snowfall or strong wind.
- Fog. When everything is white, paths vanish. Carry the route downloaded on your phone and a full battery; the cold drains it quickly.
- Do not go alone, and tell someone where you are going. The emergency number is 112.
- Respect wildlife. Winter is the hardest season for animals: if you see chamois or deer, keep your distance and do not make them run.
Where to stay
With such short days, sleeping close to the route makes all the difference:
- Somiedo: places to stay in Somiedo
- Redes: places to stay in Redes
- Cangas del Narcea and Leitariegos: places to stay in Fuentes del Narcea